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Haramosh Peak

Coordinates: 35°50′24″N 74°53′51″E / 35.84000°N 74.89750°E / 35.84000; 74.89750
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Heramosh Peak
ہراموش چوٹی
Haramosh in 2008
Highest point
Elevation7,409 m (24,308 ft)[1][2]
Ranked 67th
Prominence2,277 m (7,470 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°50′24″N 74°53′51″E / 35.84000°N 74.89750°E / 35.84000; 74.89750[1]
Geography
Heramosh Peak ہراموش چوٹی is located in Pakistan
Heramosh Peak ہراموش چوٹی
Heramosh Peak
ہراموش چوٹی
Location in Pakistan
Map
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Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
Diran
45
Diran
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Malubiting
Malubiting
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Batura III
Batura III
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Pakistan
LocationGilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeRakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent1958 by an Austrian team
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb
Haramosh Peak
Simplified Chinese哈拉莫什峰
Transcriptions

Haramosh Peak (Urdu: ہراموش چوٹی), also known as Haramosh or Peak 58, is a Karakoram range mountain located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The total population of the Haramosh Valley is at least 8000.[citation needed] The 7,409-meter Haramosh Peak is situated roughly 65 kilometers (40 miles) to the east of Gilgit, within the south-central part of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, which is a subrange of the Karakoram range. This mountain rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River, just upstream from its confluence with the Gilgit River.

The Haramosh massif consists of two main summits: Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak.[citation needed] The Haramosh Peak was first successfully climbed in 1958 by an Austrian team comprising Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl.[3]

Climbing history

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Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 when a Swiss team explored the area. Subsequently, in 1955, a German team investigated a potential northeastern route to the mountain. However, it was in 1957 that Haramosh became the site of a tragic and ill-fated expedition. A team from Oxford University, consisting of Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot, and Rae Culbert, attempted to conquer the peak but faced a series of mishaps and misfortunes during their ascent. This expedition led to the loss of Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert's lives, while Tony Streather and John Emery survived. Emery, however, endured severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes as a result of the ordeal. The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's The Last Blue Mountain.

Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by three Austrian mountaineers: Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy.[4]

According to the Himalayan Index,[5] there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).

References

[edit]
  1. ^ a b c "Karakoram ultra-prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-01-11.
  2. ^ "Haramosh, Pakistan". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 1 December 2019.
  3. ^ Babar, Samar (2010). The Epic of Haramosh. The Army Press.
  4. ^ "Haramosh Peak". Peakware.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved 1 December 2019.
  5. ^ "Himalayan Index". The Alpine Club. Retrieved 2014-01-11.

Sources

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